Tuesday 25 October 2011

Hoof Boot Guide Part III: Testing the Fit

So, now that your shiny new hoof boots have arrived in the post, now is the time for the ultimate test- do they fit (and do they make your horse look just that little bit more stylish?)?  I highly recommend using a thick plastic bag covering the feet prior to your first fitting (such as an old feed bag) so that you minimise the chances of dirtying the boot in case you need to exchange it for a different size. Pictured here are the Cavallo style and Easyboot Glove style boots modeled by my wife's horse, Zeno- but the principles apply for others in the field.

1)  Ensure your boot is fully open and all the fastening is undone (if using a trainer type boot, ensure the inner tab is flexed away from the center of the boot.  If your boot came with pastern wraps, leave them off to check the fit, and add them in later.  Design permitting, fold the outer down over the sides of the boot before attempting to fit.


2)  Holding your horse's pastern with one hand, use the other to maneouver the boot over the foot toe-first.  It is very important that the toe is fitted into the toe of the boot or there may be chafing or damage to the boot.

3)  Once the toe is in, bring the heel into the back of the boot (if you are using a compression-fit boot, there is usually a ridge here to grip onto the heel/frog).  And roll up the outers if you had folded them down initilally, but do not fasten yet.








4)  *for trainer-style boots only* Grip the bottom of the boot and rotate it around the foot- there should be enough play to turn it 20 degrees or so but not enough to rotate it around the foot.  Other styles should have little or no rotation when fitted to the foot.  (In the case of Easyboot Gloves, I highly recommend gettinga rubber mallet to tap them into place so that you get adequate heel grip).








5)  Gently lower the leg down and allow the horse to put his weight into the boot.

6)  Lift the leg and check the fit again, if you got the hoof position correct the first time, the fit should remain the same.

7)  Gently lower the leg and fasten the boot.  If using trainer-style boots, ensure there is two-fingers' worth of space between the fastened outer and the pastern to avoid chafing.









8)  Assuming that everything has progressed well and seems to be fitting properly fit the pastern wraps, repeat the process on the other foot/feet and take them out for a short test ride (though, with the trainer-style boots especially, keep the sessions/intensity short until the material has had a chance to break-in... usually about a fortnight).

9)  Ride and enjoy!

If you have any doubt, always check with an appropriate hoofcare professional or the company help desk.

If your horse has feet that are inbetween sizes, I recommend using some closed-cell foam padding (or a gardening kneepad at a push) and cutting a wedge to glue in the loose side of the boot- though this is only really an option with trainer-style boots as they are more forgiving with their fastenings... if it is an intereference-fit type boot you may have to change to a different style. 

Maintained properly (ie regularly hosed out and dried), boots should last about 1-3 years depending on workload and frequency of use (Zeno's Cavallos lasted 2 1/2 years of hard work before we had to replace them due to a hole in the uppers), so are great value for money.

Sunday 16 October 2011

Wake Up!

OK- ready yourselves, I'm about to set off on a bit of a rant...

Why- in this day and age- is the equine world so afraid of upsetting so-called 'professionals' and 'businessmen' that we let it limit what we can and can't do with OUR animal?  How often have I heard - 'I can't do ... or I can't have ...... out to see my horse because it might upset my farrier/yard owner'?  Why has everyone lost track of the fact that WE are paying these people for a service - we are not indebted to them or reliant upon their approval.  Moreover- they must be providing a good service for the money we give them- especially yard owners.  So many act as if we are indebted to them for simply allowing us a place on the yard- are we blind to the fact that we are their customers?  Who among us would let the man who owns the car park dictate which mechanic we use- let alone obey him out of fear he may be upset by our defiance?  Who would shop at a store where, if they found out you shopped around, they would threaten you with banishment?  No- this is not the way that professionals and businessmen act, regardless of what one may call oneself.  What is lacking in the horse world is the willingness to act and vote with our feet (or pound) and let those who don't provide a good service or product suffer.   In fact, this is the essence of our capitalist way.  Competition fosters innovation and good business practices- but only if we use it as a tool to help ourselves.  And yet- we do realise this, and act accordingly in our daily lives... apart from any equine service!  Why are we bending over backwards to please people that we are paying to serve us??

Now, I know you're going to wave the hippocrite flag here because I am an equine professional myself.  And I am.  However, when I receive criticism or a client leaves- I use this criticism (if constructive) to better my service and address those areas which caused complaint.  I don't rebound defensively upon my client for having expectations of my service.  In fact, the better I can serve my clients, the happier they will be and the more they will recommend me (and this makes me happy in the end)- it's my responsibility as the service provider to give a good value-for-money product.  If only more yard owners did the same.

Saturday 15 October 2011

Wose Than it Looks?

Often, with feet, things are not entirely as they seem.  To the untrained eye, feet look horrific but the cause can be entirely cosmetic... other times they look OK, but are severely compromised.  This is especially true of horses who are recently out of shoes and get crumbly wall.  Due to this fact, it is important to consult an experienced hoof care professional when in doubt.

So, why does this incongruence exist?  Surely more poorly hooves should look worse!

The first important concept to remember is that different parts of the foot have unique functions, and some relate more directly to hoof soundness than others.  For example- the wall may look horribly cracked and broken and flaking at the ground surface, but this generally isn't such a problem providing that the sole and frog are healthy and there are no underlying pathological conditions.  Far more important to the health and soundness are the sole and frog.  Provided these are healthy, a cracking/flaking wall is relatively inconsequential regarding soundness- (but is an important issue to be addressed nevertheless).  The material currently on the ground surface is also at least 3 months old (possibly older depending on the horse), and so doesn't necessarily reflect the health of the internal hoof.  An experienced practitioner will be able to tell you whether what you're seeing is problematic or merely a remnant of previous damage.

This leads to our next point- that the health of the internal hoof is not necessarily reflected in the current hoof structure.  This can go both ways - i.e: a poorly looking hoof may be healthy and on the mend inside, or a healthy looking hoof may be severely compromised internally.  A case of the latter is seen in laminitis.  Here we have a healthy looking hoof capsule that has undergone severe trauma.  It is only after a significant period of time that the external hoof structure is modified to reflect this damage.  It is only through physiologic signs and gait/bio mechanics evaluation that we can judge the internal hoof health.

Some horses may have congenital defects or acquired defects from past disease/trauma that give him a permanent deformity- but this may be entirely healthy in its deformed state.

And this is the real judge of hoof health- if it is structurally sound for the horse's needs, and that he is comfortable in the work expected of him.  It is a plastic thing, and changes depending upon the demands placed upon your horse.  Conversely, if the hoof becomes unhealthy- you must expect less of your horse until his hoof health recovers.

Monday 3 October 2011

New to Barefoot? What to Expect

So you've just had your horse's shoes taken off- well done!  Here's some important things to be careful of while your horse adapts all the new stimuli getting to his feet:

1)  Be patient.  Your horse's feet have been protected by metal or plastic shoes for many years and need a chance to adapt to the new stimuli and wear they will be getting from the ground surface.  Try and keep the work easy (this depends on the hoof health and you should ask your hoof professional for advice here) and on something cushioned like a sand school.  If you're a bit impatient or worried about your horse losing fitness, you may wish to purchase hoof boots so you are able to get out and about hacking sooner. 

2)  Closely monitor the hooves for the first few weeks and contact your hoof care professional if you are worried about anything (especially raised pulses and heat).  Occasionally feet can experience a re perfusion injury when the shoes are removed (especially if shod for a long time or very tightly)- this results from a compression of the circumflex artery of the pedal bone- and is akin to your arm 'falling asleep'... you know the feeling when you shake your arm out and get pain and pins and needles?  This is what your horse is experiencing, and it will pass with no ill effects.  This being said, things can go wrong if too much stimulus is added too quickly (especially if the feet are very unhealthy), and occasionally the horse may experience an abscess or corn if too much is done too soon.  It is always best to seek advice from a professional who has experience in transitioning horses to barefoot.

3)  Because your horse does not have the protection of a shoe 24/7, you will be able to see when he is slightly sore or footy.  Believe it or not, this is a good thing!  Because you can see every slight change in the hoof health as and when it happens, you can change and modify things accordingly to stop any problems as they start.  You will also become a sort of hoof geek- I'm afraid.  Remember, the patterns you see of soreness, etc were likely there before too, you just couldn't see them.  The important thing is to record the details of when he is footy and try to establish a pattern (ie, grass flush causes soreness) and work with your hoof care professional to eliminate the source of the soreness, nit merely mask it.  In the meantime, a good pair of boots/pads will keep him comfortable for work.

4)  Bare feet are kinder to your fields, and to other horses and people (if kicked)- but handle differently on the wet and especially on jumps- take it easy at first and allow time for you and your horse to get used to how to handle these obstacles with his new feet.  Usually there is always a bit of extra slip with bare feet, but don't worry- provided your horse is happy handling his feet he won't fall, and if you want the extra grip I recommend the Renegade boots with studs for things like cross country.

5)  The hoof growth should catch up with your workload in about 6-9 months, but in the meantime keep an eye on the amount of foot left- especially if you do a lot of roadwork.  If you need extra length, speak to your hoof care professional or use a pair of boots to protect the foot from wear.

6)  Don't worry if you don't see dramatic changes immediately.  remember that a healthy foot has to grow from the inside out, and not merely trimmed into shape- allow some time for the new growth to occur.

7)  Find some fun activities to do regardless of what level of activity your horse is up to at the moment- even if you can only walk in-hand at the moment, take the opportunity to go on some nice walks and just enjoy being with your horse- your relationship will improve as well as the feet!

Saturday 1 October 2011

Dwarf Box for Short-Arse

Anyone who's seen my pony Angus will know that his is far grander than his meager size, and boy did the little man's ego take a beating today when we moved yards.  As you can see from the picture below, his stable didn't come equipped for the vertically challenged.
Help- my horse shrank in the wash!

So, taking pity on the poor soul whinnying in frustration, we installed a little boost for him.

Which seemed to sooth his wounded ego a bit, much to the consternation of other people and horses walking past, hearing 'stomp-stomp' and seeing a tiny head heave itself over the door.  Score one for creative engineering!  Perhaps next time something quieter.... a trampoline?
 Happy Chappie!

Hoof Boot Guide Part II: Measuring Your Feet

Perhaps the most important step in fitting your horse with hoof boots is getting the correct size boot.  This is especially so if you are ordering boots from an online seller (as nearly all of us do).  To correctly size your feet, you will need the following items: a straight edge, a ruler or measuring tape, a permanent marker pen (if desired) and, of course, something to record your measurements on.


1)  Ensure that your horse has just had a trim, as any additional growth may skew the measurements and give you a boot which is too big to be usable.

2)  Using your straight edge, find the widest point on the foot (this is usually found just behind the apex of the frog.  If you are unsure, take a couple of measurements and use the widest.  If desired you may want to mark this line with your permanent marker and measure from this.






3)  Moving to the back of the foot, place your straight edge along the back of the frog/heels as shown.  Then measure the length of the foot from the toe (at midpoint) to the leading edge of the straight edge on the heels (the two points indicated on the picture).  If desired you may want to mark this line with your permanent marker and measure from this.

4)  If desired, place the hoof on a blank sheet of paper and trace around it using the permanent marker pen (you will need hard standing for this).  This will give you the total outline of the foot and allow you to check the fit of the sole plate once you receive the boots without getting them dirty, and is also very useful if you intend to fit a pad to the boot. 

Once you have the measurements for all four feet recorded, take the largest of the pair (for fores or hinds, whichever is applicable) and use this as  your sizing measurement when ordering.  Online sizing guides can be found here (http://www.easycareinc.com/our_boots/easycare-hoof-boots.aspx#&panel1-1) for Easycare products, here (http://www.cavallo-inc.com/products/hoof-boots/fit.html) for Cavallo boots, and here (http://www.renegadehoofboots.com/sizing.html) for Renegade hoof boots.

For more, see my See Hoof Boot Guide Part II:  Testing the Fit

Your Horse's Pulse: How to Take it and What it Means

One very simple and useful tool that everyone can use to check on hoof health is the distal pulse.  This is the pulsing of the main artery into the hoof from the upper body.  Normally this pulse should be barely detectable (especially if you're new to taking pulses), but will change character when inflammation is present, making it fuller and stronger (An important side note here is that when we speak of monitoring the pulse, we are interested in the quality and strength of the pulsation in this one specific area as relating to inflammation, and not making sweeping statements about the systemic vasculature or monitoring pulse rate for disease.  Think about feeling the throbbing sensation in your thumb after whacking it with a hammer versus having your vitals checked at the doctors.)

Put simply, if inflammation is present to any degree in the hoof the pulse will strengthen and become fuller when palpated on the pastern.  This is due to the lack of expansion available in the hoof capsule- as inflammatory fluids engorge the tissues, pressure increases in the hoof and there is more back pressure in the artery, resulting in the 'raised pulse'.  So, while not a perfect or detailed tool, it does give us some information as to the state of the tissues inside the hoof.  The best way to monitor your horse is to start with a one-week check, using the following method:

1) Use a sheet of paper to draw columns for AM Pulse, PM Pulse (and Midday /Night if you wish- the more information the better).  Make a note of the time of day you intend to monitor the pulse- it doesn't matter a great deal, but the times should be consistent throughout the week.  A good method of doing this is to take it after their morning/evening feed through the wintertime.  Some additional information about any changes in the feed that day or field moves/changes will also be useful.


2) Locate the correct area to measure the distal pulse.  It lies in the soft area just behind the bony mass of the pastern.









3)  Cup your hand as shown and wrap it around the pastern from the front.  The front part of the pastern should be resting in the soft area between your thumb and forefinger.









4)  Close your fingers and thumb gently around the back of the pastern, but try not to squeeze- if the pulse isn't significantly raised you may not feel any pulse if too much pressure is applied.  The pulsations should occur somewhere along the length of your thumb and forefingers, take some time to get the feel for it.







5)  Once you've felt the pulse, note it on your form using a scale from 1-5 ( 1 being just barely detectable and 5 a pulse so strong  you can see it through the hair).

6)  Repeat the exercise on all four feet, and follow the measurements the rest of the week.  At the end, you should have an idea as to when the pulses are raised and what a 'normal' pulse is for your horse at this time.  Once you get in the practice, it is useful to have a feel of the pulses as you pick the feet out and see if a raised pulse is corresponding to napping or stroppy behaviours and lameness.

Thursday 29 September 2011

We Need More

We've just had our horses teeth done today, and if there's ever one activity that makes you thankful for someone who's not only a superbly qualified but a terrific horseman - this is it.  As in many health related fields (both animal and human), so often patient care is put to one side in favour solely of technical expertise.  Yes, it is important to be skilled at your profession to be a responsible practitioner, but it's having the additional patient handling skills (especially with difficult cases like our little one Angus) which makes great professionals.  We all want our horses to be treated with respect and dignity while being treated- and finding that balance while getting the job done should be higher on the list of priorities for many people in the field.  What it boils down to, I think, is that people who enjoy being around horses are those who are better at treating horses- empathizing with them and understanding them instead of viewing them as an inanimate object to be serviced.  So, to all those dentists, EPs, vet, farriers, etc.  who take the time to treat our horses with kindness- thank you.

Wednesday 28 September 2011

What Hoof Shape are You?

Hooves come in a variety of shapes ans sizes, from flat to round or splayed just to name a few.  But what do these terms mean?  Listed below are some pictures and descriptions of common hoof shapes and what they mean.

1) 'Flat' Feet:  These are hooves in which the sole lacks concavity and lies very close to the ground.  It can result from overly thin sole material, or from overly thick sole material.  Front feet are naturally flatter than hind feet, and some breeds have genetically flatter feet than others, but an overly flat foot is usually the result of inflammatory processes.







2) 'Upright' Feet:  These hooves have an abnormally high heel height, resulting from relatively benign causes or severe pathology.  The most innocuous cases result from overly long growth, or unbalanced trimming and are usually resolved quite quickly.  In more severe cases, an apparent high heel can be caused by a rotation of the hoof capsule around the bony column as in acute laminitis.  Occasionally, this type of foot can arise due to chronically shortened tendons, so this will be the 'normal' shape for the foot.

3)  Flared Feet:  Hooves with large amounts of flare can result from feet that are overdue a trim, or from feet which suffer from long term inflammation and usually also exhibit under-run or collapsed heels.









4)  'Narrow' Feet:  This hoof will exhibit a contracture in the heels, making it appear more oval and will normally show a deep central groove in the frog which will be prone to infection.  By encouraging the horse to use his feet in a more correct fashion, these feet can be encouraged to open out.

5)  'Round' Feet:  Your bog-standard warm-blood or draft horse foot- nearly circular with robust walls and high level of symmetry.








6)  'Wide' Feet:  These are usually hooves which have bilateral flaring, making the width markedly longer in measuremtn than the toe-heel length.  Some horses and breeds tend towards this type of foot even in a healthy state.  You may find difficulty finding these horses hoof boots that fit well.

7)  'Long' Feet:  Usually this indicates a long toe/low heel shape for the foot and can either be the result of unchecked growth, chronic inflammation, or poor trimming.  This can usually be rehabilitated well with proper trimming and treatment of the causes of inflammtion.




8)  'Under-Run' Feet:  When a hoof's heels become under-run, the heel purchase migrates forward, nearer the apex of the frog, and continued weight-bearing on these bent structures tends to further the problem.  This type of foot will usually exhibit flaring on one or both sides.  With some supportive padding, correct trimming and diet this foot has a good prospect for rehabilitation.

Monday 26 September 2011

Hoof Boot Guide Part I: Not All Boots Are Created Equal

There's no other item quite as useful when having a barefoot horse than a good hoof boot.  There is, however, more to selecting the ideal boot for your horse than you might think.  There are a wide variety of brands and types of boot on the market today, and which one you choose should be determined by two important factors: your horse's hoof shape, and your intended activity. 

The first factor has to do with the shape of the sole of the boot and it is important because some boots are designed to fit round hooves, while some fit wide hooves best, and others fit petite hooves.  To some extent, if you have an 'average' hoof, it will fit reasonably well regardless of the type, but - and this is especially important for those of us with pathological hooves to think about- if the hoof is mis-shapen (by abnormal growth or injury) or in the process of rehabilitation you may have to change boot types a number of times as and when the foot shape changes.  For example:  If your horse developed severely under-run heels and flared quarters (as this picture demonstrates) then you will need a boot which will accomodate as wide a foot as possible (as well as a pad), but as the foot rehabilitates you will soon find that a more round-shaped boot will do the job nicely. 

Perhaps just as vital is what you plan to do with your horse- whether it be endurance rides across rocky ground or carriage driving on asphalt roads, each discipline will suit a particular style of boot.  This is where we will consider the types of fastening and upper materials.  Included in this consideration is also whether your horse is being booted as part of an ongoing rehab (where, I'm afraid your choice may be limited to the accomodatingly roomy trainer type boots) or if you just need a bit of extra insurance if and when your horse may be a bit tender (in which case there are many sleek and stylish options open to you). 

Okay, so you've decided what your horse needs based on the shape of his foot and the demands placed upon him- now you're ready to get matched to the appropriate boot.  We'll start with the first and most versitile category- the trainer type hoof boot.  This type has one or more flaps that wrap the whole hoof above the level of the coronet band and fasten with velcro or buckle fasteners on the front of the boot (the most common types are the Old Mac - see pic - and the Cavallo hoof boots). They are the most commonly used boots for rehabilitation because they are spacious enough to fit in a generous pad to cushion and support the pathological foot.  This, combined with their ruggedness makes them extremely versitile and if you can only afford one set of boots, I'd recommend these every time.  They are also more forgiving with odd or mis-shapen hooves.  The downside is that they can be fiddly to put on/take off until you get used to the fastenings (this is especially true of Old Mac boots).  For this boot type: wide hooves suit Old Mac's; round hooves suit Old Mac's G2, Cavallo and Cavallo Sport (though there tends to be a larger size step in this brand) and Easyboot Trail.  I don't recommend the Boa hoof boot for any use as the fastening device can allow the unsuspecting owner to overtighten the boot and compress the coronet band, producing bruising and chafing (the device uses a ski-boot type dial using thin wire which can quickly create an alraming degree of compression).

The next mainstream boot type is that which fastens to the hoof by a compression mechanism (ie various types of clamp).  Of these, the oldest and best known is the original Easyboot (pictured).  The rear of the boot generally grips around the heel while the front grips and clamps to the hoof wall.  I like this type a great deal  as they generally come in a wide variety of sizes and sit entirely below the coronet band, minimizing the risk of compressing the coronet band or soft tissue rubs.  However, there is little scope for fitting a pad of any real theraputic value and I mainly recommend these for otherwise sound horses who need extra protection for rocky trails or the occasional bout of footiness.  Many of the soles are cast for quarterhorse feet so you may not have much luck finding one which fits your horse if he has wide feet.  The downside is that, unless they fit snugly they will not stay on well so an accurate fit is essential.  Easycare do, however, do a fit-kit which provides you with a range of soles to try on your horse and a good set of instructions for judging the fit- I highly recommend using it.  All these boots I would recommend for 'normal', round shaped hooves only.

An additional branch of this type is the 'glove' type boot which fits by interference fit onto the hoof and has the benefit of being very light and easy to put on (pictured is the Easyboot Glove).  These aren't quite as rugged as the other compression fit types, but work brilliantly if you desire a bit of added protection from rocky trails or wear protection if you're doing alot of tarmac mileage.  They have no real theraputic value so unless your horse has healthy feet I'd recommend these purely as an addition to a good pair of trainer type boots.  As with those listed above, these tend to really only fit 'normal' or round feet- but there is a new Easyboot Glove Wide which promises to be a more versitile fit for wide hooves.  An important side is the Hoof Wings boot which is a custom-fit glove type boot which is a viable option if you have difficulty finding an appropriate fit.

The final main offering is another hoof-fastening type which incorporates a dynamic fastening around the pastern or heel.  The most notable is the Renegade hoof boot (pictured).  As with the glovetypes, these are purely for horses who have otherwise healthy feet that require a bit of added protection for trail rides or abrasive surfaces.  The heel cup system employed here is one of my favorites and virtually eliminates any possibility of bruising of abrasion of soft tissues.  They are also as robust as the compression-fit boots but super light- I highly recommend these type of boots for trekking or heavy-duty trail riding as you get all the advantages of the gloves but a more secure, robust fit).  Again, these tend to be sized for 'normal' to round feet only and have little theraputic use as no pad of substance can be fitted.

Next up: Part II:  Sizing Your Hoof Accurately

Additional Resources:

www.easycare.com
www.cavallo-inc.com
www.renegadehoofboots.com
www.hoofwings.co.uk

Monday 19 September 2011

Welcome!

Welcome one and all to my new blog.  In the coming weeks and months, I'll be making this space into a clearinghouse for all things hoof related (and some things that aren't but that I find darned interesting).  So, watch this space!  For now, back to work writing something suitably interesting ;)